As the calendar officially turns to fall, signaling the shift to cozy sweaters and pumpkin-spice everything, the surfers in the Outer Banks, North Carolina, are hanging on to the last bits of summer. This past Wednesday, Hurricane Jose graced the shores with a beautiful set of waves, providing an unforgettable surfing experience that many will remember long into the colder months.
According to local photographer Matt Lusk, José took the ideal route, remaining offshore while sending impressive waves our way. “Jose took the ideal track for us, where it stayed offshore and sent some good waves without the bad weather and the destruction to property,” Lusk remarked enthusiastically. With the recent weather challenges the area has faced, this swell was a much-appreciated gift. Once the storm passed and offshore winds kicked in, the day turned out to be truly magical. Picture this: a clear blue sky, light offshore breezes, and
long, fast waves that seemed like they went on forever!
Among the many surfers out that day, Mason Barnes from Wilmington stole the show. Riding a micro board, he took off late on a wave and flew through the tunnel of water with unmatched finesse. Though Lusk was positioned just down the sandbar, he managed to catch a glimpse of Mason’s incredible ride. “It was one of the best waves I’ve ever seen on the Outer Banks,” Lusk exclaimed, admitting that words alone couldn’t do this wave justice. Thanks to a video captured by Christian Lyles, the spectacular sequence of Mason navigating the wave was immortalized for all to see.
Mason shared his immense joy about the day: “It’s been so nice being home on the East Coast. A trip that was supposed to be only one week long has turned into six. This day was the best and heaviest Outer Banks I have ever surfed.” His enthusiasm certainly adds a colorful highlight to the day, as he also took a moment to extend his thoughts to those in the Caribbean affected by recent storms, showing that even in thrilling times, the surfing community stands together.
However, not every wave was a winner. Lusk noted that while there were some epic rides, many surfers came back to shore feeling a bit underwhelmed. “For every keg like Barnes’, there were many more wash-through fizzlers;” the sessions did produce a mixed bag of results. For those lucky enough to score great rides, it was exhilarating. But for others, it was a game of chance, highlighting the unpredictable nature of surfing.
With ideal offshore winds throughout the day, surfers were thrilled to find perfect conditions. The temperature of the water hovered around a comfortable 75 degrees, allowing participants to don their springsuits and comfortably surf the waves. “Generally, when we have those screaming lefts like that, it’s a cold, freezing-ass NE, with everyone wearing 5/4/3s, but this was a warm, beautiful day,” Lusk added. He noted that the experience of catching some incredible left-handers was made all the more enjoyable thanks to the pleasant weather.
As surfers continue to ride the last swells of summer, the community in North Carolina is grateful for the beautiful day that Hurricane Jose gifted them. Whether embracing the laughter with friends, sharing incredible ride stories, or simply enjoying the stunning scenery, it’s safe to say that the Outer Banks is still riding high on summer vibes.
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